Travel & Climbing in Ecuador, Part 1

Having grown up in the US, I never gave much thought to the country of Ecuador.
I knew that it's situated on the equator (though be forewarned if you visit the official monument); the Galapagos would be cool to visit; and that was about it.
Until my sister Jeanne retired there.  You can read a bit more about that here.

Jeanne feeding a street dog

In any case, in December of 2012 I joined my son Jimmy, daughter Molly, and sister Kathy to visit Ecuador.

We fly from Ithaca, New York; on the east coast of North America



And fly to Quito and then Cuenca, Ecuador; on the west coast of South America


Literally due south.  Due to plate tectonics, Ecuador and New York are in the same time zone!

Jeanne lives in Cuenca, the third largest city in Ecuador after Quito and Guayaquil (a common gateway to tours of the Galapagos Islands).


Before visiting, I read cautionary tales of crowded buses (where thieves will reach under your seat and slit your backpack open to steal the contents),



About the loose adherence to safety when driving.

A number of times we see vehicles passing while negotiating a hairpin turn.  And a number of times a third vehicle (including semi trucks) come barreling around the bend at the same time.  Luckily, Ecuadorian Highway Engineers are clever and build the roads wide enough to accommodate three across...

But the thoughts of visiting Jeanne (and climbing mountains) are strong enough to overcome my concerns, and I book tickets.

One of the mountains Jimmy and I hope to climb is Mt. Chimborazo.


At 6,272 meters above sea level, Mt. Chimborazo is a high peak.  Again, thanks to geology and geeky geodesists, we know that the earth bulges at the equator (Considering the earth is spinning at 1,000 miles per hour, it's a wonder Ecuadorians don't go flying off into space).  Because of the bulging, Mt. Chimborazo is actually farther from the center of the earth than Mt. Everest!


So, how do I prepare for such a serious climb?

Lots of stairs (you can read about my OCD SMURF training program here).


I also climb some peaks in the Adirondacks.

Noonmark Mountain as viewed from a kite

And, to prepare for a mountain that's "higher" than Mount Everest, I climb Mt. Everett in Massachusetts!


I also assemble a mountain of gear and clothing



A week before my scheduled departure, Mt Tungurahua blows up.

I send a frantic email asking the guide company if they're okay and if I should still come.
I receive this message in response:

"Hi Bob

Good day

Everything is Ok ,with us thank you ,i live in Quito.

There is no affect of Volcan Tungurahua  of your Chimborazo climb..dont worry.

Regards

Shuly"

So with that reassurance, off I go.


Despite it being the third largest city in Ecuador, there doesn't seem to be a way to fly from the US to Cuenca without a night layover in Quito.  Some folks stay in the airport (luckily Ecuadorian interior designers are compassionate and the seats don't have arm rests).


But we opt for a brief stay in a hotel.  The drive to the hotel feels sketchy to this bumpkin, unaccustomed to the ways of big cities or third world cultures.


But once inside, and especially in the morning, the place reveals it's grand nature.  Jimmy and I sleep in the round tower, and have coffee on the little balcony, with a view of...


The mountains surrounding Quito.  I come to know one of these mountains during my next visit.

Coffee on the balcony

Breakfast also turns out to be memorable.


Quito is a big city, and would probably be even bigger if not for the constraints of the surrounding mountains.

Kind of like Ouray, Colorado.
Kind of.


Cuenca is also a big city by my standards, but the trip from the airport to Jeanne's house is quick.  Because...


The airport in Cuenca is right in town.  So close, the jet blast probably helps dry people's laundry hanging in their yard.  Or more likely gives sheets the twangy aroma of Jet-A fuel.

One of the cultural differences I like is watching a guy walking with a cow along pedestrian paths to the city park where he tethers it to graze for the day.  Then they walk home in the evening.


Although located on the equator, Cuenca is situated at about 8,400 feet of elevation, so we get to see some new flora.









Cuenca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so we also get to admire some incredible architecture






Jimmy and I get to appreciate another cultural difference when we visit this cathedral in Quito.  As we're admiring the architecture, they close and lock the surrounding gates for the night. There's no advanced notice, so several of us tourists have to climb over a wrought iron fence and traverse along the top of a stone wall to get out!  Good practice for mountains.


And, on the ground floor of the cathedral, you can shop for plumbing supplies.



While on the subject of merchandise in unexpected places, or in this case unexpected merchandise...
The guy behind the food vendor is selling toilet paper and rubber chickens.

Jimmy is about 5'10" tall.  Granted, he's wearing his mountain boots and maybe he's closer to the camera, but still...

Fried banana with queso fresco.  Yum.

Cherries, not plums

Didn't try this, or even stop to ask.  But I am curious.

Here are pictures of the food market near Jeanne's house.








This little piggy went to market and ended up as Almuerzo.

































If you look closely to labels in the US grocery stores, sometimes you'll see that fruits and vegetables are from Ecuador.



And lots of the cut flowers, especially roses are from Ecuador.


As well as chocolate.

This is not a store display, but I'm not telling how many gringos share this gluttonous spread.

Despite the name, Panama Hats originated in Ecuador.


Armed with proper protection from the sun; Molly, Jimmy and I set off for a hike in Las Cajas Park.




This turns out to be one of the most scenic hikes I've ever had the pleasure to experience.  I am so lucky.






And the sandwiches rank as one of the best meals of my life.  Of course, it might have something to do with the culinary companions and scenery.


One cultural quirk that Cuenca shares with Ithaca is a parade of tutu-wearing vehicles.


It's part of the New Year celebration that includes burning effigies to rid us from bad habits of the past year.  The "monigotes" are available for sale all over the city,


resulting in some fun passengers


On New Year's Eve, there's no need to leave your house to enjoy the fireworks, they are shot off all over the city streets : )

And so, after a great time together, Molly and Kathy head home, and Jimmy and I prepare to do some climbing.